I’ll admit it—the first time I saw the Matterhorn, I was awestruck. Its shining pyramid form rising above Zermatt seemed like something out of a dream, and for a moment I thought about how to get to its top. But unfortunately, there are 19 reasons never to try to climb the Matterhorn, and each is severe enough to make even seasoned alpinists hesitate. From deadly rockfall to unreliable storms and asphyxiating crowds, this mountain is worse than its photo-quality reputation suggests.
How Dangerous Is the Matterhorn?
Matterhorn climbing is AD grade (assez difficile), which will look modest on paper, but exposure, technicality, and duration of the climb make it one of the most challenging mountains in the Alps. An average 3–4 climbers die every year by way of falls, rockfall, exhaustion, or weather.
Navigation Traps: The First Risk Category
1. Route-Finding Mistakes
Even experienced climbers miss essential turns on the Hörnli Ridge, leading to life-threatening dead ends.
2. Deceptive Paths in the Dark
The majority of climbs begin at sunrise. It is easy to become disoriented in the dark and find yourself in loose, exposed ground.
3. Descent Risks
The majority of accidents take place on the descent when fatigue sets in and concentration is lost.
4. Push to Continue
Too many climbers overlook turnaround times, causing late-day falls and hazardous descents.
Objective Hazards Beyond Your Control
5. Rockfall From Nature
The Hörnli Ridge is notorious for loose rocks, especially on sunny afternoons.
6. Rockfall Triggered by Other Climbers
With dozens of climbers traversing the same line, loose stones are often kicked down unintentionally.
7. Permafrost Instability
Permafrost thawing is loosening whole walls of rock, which gets worse every year.
8. Sudden Storms
Weather can change in minutes to turn solid holds into slippery traps of snow or ice.
Human Factors Exponentially Enhancing the Danger
9. Crowded Trails
The Matterhorn is limited to 150 climbers per day in peak season, creating hazardous traffic jams.
10. Guide Pressure
Guides rush clients along. Unguided climbers feel pressured to maintain the pace, which leads to mistakes.
11. Fatigue
It’s a 10–12 hour journey at altitude. Even the fit overestimates the expense of prolonged exposure.
12. Inexperience of Other Climbers
Most try the climb with little previous alpine experience. One person’s error can put everyone within reach in danger.
Technical Challenges Behind the Flash Photography
13. Prolonged Exposure
Knife-edge ridges with 1,000-meter drops on either side make up much of the climb.
14. Mixed Terrain Challenges
You’ll face rock, snow, and ice all in a single outing—requiring competence in all three.
15. Down-Climbing Difficulties
Climbers underestimate how hard it is to down-climb UIAA III–IV rock for hours when tired.
Logistics, Cost, and Access Issues
16. Availability of Hut
The Hörnli Hut is required for most climbs, but accommodations are limited and bookings book months in advance.
17. Exorbitant Costs
Hut nights, guide fees, and travel easily add up to many thousands of dollars for a single attempt.
18. Excessive Guide Ratios
One guide takes only a single client, which adds to cost and limits access.
19. Seasonality
You have only a brief season from July–September. After that, conditions are incredibly unstable.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Is the Matterhorn the most hazardous mountain in the Alps?
Not the most deadly, but nearly. The Eiger and Mont Blanc also kill a lot of people, but the Matterhorn’s popularity and technicality keep its accident rate high.
2. Can an inexperienced climber climb the Matterhorn with a guide?
Yes, technically it can be done, but it isn’t advisable. Guides need good alpine fitness, competent crampon technique, and expertise on exposed rock. New climbers always overestimate what those abilities entail.
3. How many fatalities occur on the Matterhorn yearly?
Three to four climbers die on average each year. Years get more depending on weather conditions and the flow of climbers.
4. What are some safer alternatives to climbing the Matterhorn?
Think of the Breithorn, Gran Paradiso, or even Mont Blanc. They provide tough climbs with less risk and fewer fatalities, yet still provide an unforgettable alpine experience.
A Final Word: The Smartest Climb May Be No Climb
The Matterhorn will forever beckon imaginations as its classic pyramid spire towers above Zermatt. But after considering these 19 reasons to never climb the Matterhorn, the danger becomes difficult to ignore. From objective dangers such as rockfall and unexpected storms to human pressures such as crowds and exhaustion, this mountain requires more than most climbers can safely deliver. Occasionally, the best choice is to look up to it from the valley bottom—or to opt for a safer top that allows you to continue pursuing adventure another day.
